A really rich dish that transforms ordinary old cauliflower and lifts it to the status of true deliciousness.
1 lb 10 oz (800g) cauliflower – that’s two medium heads or one very large one – broken up into florets
1 large onion (or two small ones) finely sliced
1 tbsp olive oil
3 anchovies
2oz (55g) parmesan cheese, chopped coarsely
12 pitted black olives, chopped
salt
1 glass red wine (4 fl oz, or 115 ml, if you’re being precise)
Start by popping the anchovies into a small bowl of fresh water. Leave them to soak for a while – this makes them less overwhelmingly salty.
Bring a large saucepan to the boil. While that’s heating, take a heavy-bottomed casserole – not too broad, as this is a layer dish and needs to go up more than it spreads out! Then fry the onions in the bottom for about 5 minutes, until soft.
When the water is boiling, drop in the cauliflower florets and time them to boil for 60 seconds. This blanches them and stops them losing too much goodness. When their minute is up, drain and set aside.
Take the anchovies out of the water, and chop them finely. Add half to the onion in the casserole, then add a tablespoon of the cheese and 4 of the chopped olives.
Cover this mixture with cauliflower florets. Then scatter a few more olives over the cauliflower, add some anchovy and a little more of the cheese. Cover with more cauliflower, then more olives, anchovies and cheese, and sprinkle with a little olive oil. Keep layering like this until you use up all the ingredients.
Pour over the red wine, sprinkle with a last spot of olive oil, then cover with a close-fitting lid and cook at a very slow simmer for about 45 minutes. Don’t stir or disturb the layers.
Serve piping hot, with crusty bread and green salad.

